September Stroll to Arch Rock Posted November 6, 2023 The summer season draws to a close in the North Woods. Join naturalist Kyle Bagnall for this easy guided stroll along the Mackinac Island Botanical Trail. Along the way we’ll savor lingering summer wonders and look for early signs of autumn, including migrating songbirds. At Arch Rock, you’ll enjoy one of the island’s most spectacular views and a short tour of the newly-completed Milliken Nature Center. Meet behind Fort Mackinac and we’ll cover about 1.5 miles total on paved roads and trails. Admission by donation. #thisismackinac
Arch Rock Plaza Closure Posted August 28, 2023 Roads to Arch Rock will be closed at Leslie Avenue and Huron Road. Roads in red will have occasional vehicle traffic Septhroughout the closure. **September 15 Update – The Spring Trail stairway is currently open and available to guests.** The Arch Rock Plaza is closed starting Monday, September 11, as construction of the $7.5 million Milliken Nature Center begins at the area. The area will remain closed through at least April of 2024. The Arch Rock Plaza will be closed to all traffic – including carriages, bicycles, and pedestrians. Guests will be able to view Arch Rock from M-185, the shoreline road that circles Mackinac Island, and access the Arch Rock viewing platform via the Spring Trail stairway. This path is also subject to closure. Arch Rock Area Closures. Roads in red will have occasional vehicle traffic but remain open to guests. The plaza will be closed at the intersection of Rifle Range Road and Leslie Avenue and again at the intersection of Arch Rock Road and Huron Road. The Arch Rock Bicycle Trail and Botanical Trail will dead end before the hill leading to Arch Rock. Guests will still be able to make a loop near the Arch Rock area by backtracking to Winnebago Trail, which runs from Huron Road to Rifle Range Road. It crosses Pottawatomie Road, Arch Rock Road, the Arch Rock Bicycle Trail, Rock Trail, and ends at the intersection of Rifle Range and Sugar Loaf Roads. In addition to the work at the Arch Rock Plaza, occasional truck traffic from British Landing – on State, Garrison, and Rifle Range Roads – will happen. Guests are encouraged to stay to the right side of the road and slow down to allow trucks to pass. Trucks will also occasionally head down British Landing Road to the Waste Management Facility, located across from Wawashkamo Golf Club. A rendering of the new Milliken Nature Center at Arch Rock. During construction a new drain field will be added to the Arch Rock area, and the out-of-date restroom structure will be demolished. The Milliken Nature Center, named for Michigan Governor William Milliken, will include modern restrooms, a nature center, and space for guests at Arch Rock to relax. During this time Mackinac Island Carriage Tours, private livery tours, drive-yourself carriages, and saddle horses will have alternate routes that avoid Arch Rock. Contact Jack’s Livery Stable or Mackinac Island Carriage Tours for more information. The Milliken Nature Center is slated to open in May, 2024. Site groundbreaking took place September 1. Watch here for additional updates.
Early Accounts of Arch Rock Posted November 5, 2021 On an island known for awe-inspiring natural wonders, Arch Rock is Mackinac’s most iconic. This seemingly delicate natural bridge “excites the wonder of all beholders” as it defies gravity, rising more than 140 feet above the waters of Lake Huron. Whether you gaze up from the lakeshore or peer down from the adjacent cliffside, the views that your breath away have been enjoyed by visitors for centuries. The first known description of Mackinac Island’s geological formations was penned by Dr. Francis LeBaron on October 30, 1802. The doctor recently arrived at Fort Mackinac to assume the duties of post surgeon. In a letter to the editor of Boston’s Columbian Centinel & Massachusetts Federalist, he wrote:Dr. Francis LeBaron “The island of Michilimackinac is about three miles long and two wide, situated in the straights that join lake Huron to lake Michigan…The curiosities of this place consist of two natural caves, one of them is formed in the side of a hill, the other in a pyramidical rock of eighty feet in height, and thirty-five feet in diameter at its base, which is situated on a plain and totally detached from any rock or precipice… There are also two natural arches of the Gothic order which appear to have been formed by some convulsions in nature, one is eighty feet in height, the other is forty.” Arch Rock received even broader attention in 1812, when a short description appeared in the sixth edition of Reverend Jedidah Morse’s American Universal Geography. Known as the “father of American geography” (also father of Samuel Morse, inventor of the telegraph) his books influenced the educational system of the United States, being widely used in classrooms for decades. In part, his description of Michigan Territory reads:Rev. Jedidiah MorseThe American Universal Geography, 1812 “Islands. The island Michilimackinac lies between Michigan and Huron, and is 7 miles in circumference….The fort is neatly built, and exhibits a beautiful appearance from the water… On the N.E. side of the island, near the shore, and 80 feet above the lake, is an arched rock. The arch is 20 feet in diameter, at the top, and 30 at the base… The island is one mass of limestone, and the soil is very rich. The climate is cold but healthy. The winter lasts for 5 months with unabated rigor.”Map of the Island of Michilimackinac [Arch Rock Detail], W.S. Eveleth, 1817 After the War of 1812, American military surveys and inspections produced a flurry of descriptions, sketches, and maps of Mackinac Island. During an 1817 survey, Lieutenant William Sanford Eveleth, U.S. Corps of Engineers, composed a highly detailed map, including miniature drawings of Arch Rock, Sugar Loaf and Skull Cave. One can imagine curious visitors strolling each dotted pathway through the woods, in search of geological wonders. While sharing his reflections on the arch, Captain David Bates Douglass later revealed, “Several officers have walked over it, among which are Lieutenant Curtis and Pierce and my lamented friend Evelyth, at the dizzy height of 147 feet. However, I should think it a rash enterprise.” [In October 1818, Lieut. Evelyth tragically drowned in a violent Lake Michigan gale during the wreck of the schooner Hercules with all hands lost.]The Arched rock, Michillimackina, F.S. Belton, Sep. 1817 Major Francis Smith Belton completed the first known artistic rendering of Arch Rock in September 1817. Also on a military inspection tour, his view is shown from a boat offshore, rendered wild, exaggerated and fantastical.Detail of The Arched rock, Michilimackina by F.S. Belton, Sep. 1817 One of the two tiny figures drawn at the top of Belton’s image may be Judge Advocate Samuel A. Storrow, who was also on the Island that September. His written description of Mackinac Island and Arch Rock was published as a pamphlet entitled, The North-West in 1817: A Contemporary Letter. In part, it reads: “On the eastern side, I found one of the most interesting natural curiosities I have ever witnessed. On the edge of the island, where as elsewhere, the banks are perpendicular, you creep cautiously toward the margin, expecting to overlook a precipice; instead of which you find a cavity of about 75 degrees descent, hollowed from the direct line of the banks; and across it on the edge of the precipice… an immense and perfect arch. Its height is 140 feet from the water, which is seen through it… Looking from the interior, the excavation resembles a crater; but, instead of an opposite side, presents an opening, which is surmounted by this magnificent arch… When on the beach below, you see this mighty arch 140 feet above you, half hid in trees, and seemingly suspended in the air… From the Lake it appears like a work of art, and might give birth to a thousand wild and fanciful conjectures.” From these early, enthusiastic descriptions it’s clear that Arch Rock has cast a spell upon Mackinac Island visitors for centuries. To learn more about Arch Rock and the Island’s other natural wonders, watch for future blog posts, exhibits and publications and visit mackinacparks.com.
Arch Rock Posted December 19, 2013 Location: East side of island near the shoreline, Located by taking Lake Shore Road, Arch Rock Road, Arch Rock Bicycle Trail, or Huron Road Rising 146 feet above the water, Arch Rock is a natural curiosity which spans fifty feet as its widest point. It was formed over thousands of years by wind and water eroding soft rock below, leaving only the hard breccia rock which forms the arch.
“Mackinac Rocks!” Open House and Reception Posted November 3, 2023 Grand opening and awards reception for the 2024 juried art exhibition at The Richard & Jane Manoogian Mackinac Art Museum, Mackinac Rocks! Co-sponsored by Mackinac Associates, the Mackinac Arts Council, and Mackinac State Historic Parks. #thisismackinac From looking in wonder at the natural curiosity that is Arch Rock to skipping rocks at Windermere Point, to maybe enjoying some ‘rock’ at a local establishment or the fact that Mackinac Island is itself a large rock, it is safe to say that Mackinac Rocks! We encourage artists working in all media to share with us their artistic visions of what Mackinac Rocks! means to them
Re-opening the Archaeological Site at Michilimackinac Posted June 10, 2022 The House E site with all of the squares open.Map of British features of House D showing House E cellar (F.866) to west of common wall separating Houses D & E.Late May saw the beginning of the 64th archaeological field season at Michilimackinac. We are continuing to excavate the rowhouse unit we have been working on since 2007. We have opened three new squares where we expect to find remains of the trench for the north wall of the house. This should be as wide as the excavation for this project expands. The house walls do not fall exactly in line with the grid. Because of this, when we excavated the rowhouse unit to the east (House D) in the 1990s, we excavated about a foot of the current house (House E) as well. In doing so, we uncovered the edge of the root cellar in the southeast corner of House E. We reached the bottom of the western two-thirds of this cellar at the end of last season. Now we have uncovered the eastern third, which we had protected and re-buried when we backfilled House D in 1997. Our first exciting find of the season came from the east section of the cellar, most of a redware bowl with a green-glazed border. We had found a matching rim sherd in the western edge of the cellar in 2018. The dark crescent-shaped area is the cellar. The rocky sand is the beach underlying the fort.Bowl with rim fragment from 2018 held in place.
Archaeology at Fort Mackinac – The British Well Posted January 28, 2022 The well is marked “C” on this plan of Fort Mackinac drawn in 1796 by Lieutenants James Sterrett and Ebenezer Massey. The earliest archaeological excavation at Fort Mackinac took place at one of its earliest structures, the well. When British soldiers began building Fort Mackinac in 1780, one of their first projects was to excavate a well within the fort’s walls. This required digging at least 80’ and possibly up to 150’ into the limestone bedrock. The well was still in use as late as 1800, but had failed by the beginning of the War of 1812. Over the next century and a half, the well and associated depression were filled with a variety of materials. In 1965 a team of archaeologists from the University of Michigan, led by Dr. David Brose, looked for the well, but they only had a week at the end of a project elsewhere on the island and the well proved to be further down than they expected.Archaeologists standing in well by casing stones in 1981. In 1980, as part of the celebration of the bicentennial of Fort Mackinac, a major archaeological excavation was undertaken to search for the well. The project was carried out by a team from the University of South Florida under the direction of Dr. Roger T. Grange, Jr. He was assisted by Robin R. Wright. Her master’s thesis, The 1780 British Well Site, was the main source used in preparing this blog post. All of the filling had resulted in the remains of the well being located eight feet below grade at the end of the 1980 field season. It took another season of excavation, in 1981, to fully understand the construction and destruction series of events. The limestone shaft of the well, 14’ in diameter at the top, was topped by a dressed stone casing. The excavation also revealed a previously unknown revetment wall seven feet west of the well. It appears that the first major fill episode, including the removal of the well superstructure, took place around 1821. By this time the garrison was beginning to pump water into the fort. The second major episode of filling took place in 1878 when the original powder magazine, just north of the well, was demolished to make room for a new post commissary, which still stands today. This resulted in a layer of boulders which had to be removed by backhoe during the archaeology project!Well casing stones visible today at Fort Mackinac. The final episode of filling was more-or-less continuous filling by MISPC operations personnel from 1934 until 1980 as the area continued to settle. Fill was brought in from the Early Farm across British Landing Road from Wawashkamo Golf Club and raked in from pea gravel paths throughout the fort. When the excavation was complete, the well was left exposed, so visitors to Fort Mackinac could view this remnant of the earliest construction. You can see the well to your right as you enter through the south sally port. Fort Mackinac opens for the season May 3, 2022.
Mackinac Island’s Other Arches Posted January 21, 2022 Arch Rock is Mackinac Island’s most famous and spectacular limestone formation. A century ago, curious visitors could find two additional arches, also celebrated for their natural beauty and rich traditions. Today, Sanilac Arch exists as a remnant of its former self, while Fairy Arch only remains in artwork, photos, and written accounts. Their stories highlight the importance of preservation and serve as reminders of nature’s continual process of change.For many years, a small boat was the easiest way to access Fairy Arch (1872) Fairy Arch Fairy Arch was first described in 1802 by Dr. Francis LeBarron as one of Mackinac Island’s two “natural arches of the Gothic order.” Over the following decades, a thick undergrowth of young trees blanketed the island landscape, which had been previously cleared for firewood. For most of the 19th century, Mackinac’s eastern shoreline was difficult to explore, covered by huge boulders and thick vegetation. In 1866, Fort Mackinac surgeon Dr. John R. Bailey rediscovered the 40-foot formation and coined the name Fairy Arch. Despite challenging access, the lovely arch appeared on 19th century maps and in guidebooks. In 1872, Constance Fenimore Woolson wrote, “Fairy Arch is of similar formation to Arched Rock, and lifts from the sands with a grace and beauty that justify the name bestowed upon it.” In an 1875 guidebook for visitors of the newly created Mackinac National Park, publisher John Disturnell noted Fairy Arch was about ¼ mile from Arch Rock. He wrote: “A little north and beyond [Robinson’s Folly] a high pinnacle of rude rock crops out from the mountain side, near the base of which is a very picturesque arch, known as the ‘Fairy Arch,’ or Arch of the ‘Giant’s Stairway.’ This spot is rather difficult of access owing to the presence of huge rocks and an entangled forest.” Fairy Arch became more accessible about 1900, when a boulevard completely encircling Mackinac Island was completed. From the shore, visitors were encouraged to climb huge limestone ledges, like giant steps, to explore this natural wonder. A 1918 guidebook noted, “To visit Mackinac Island and fail to climb the Giant’s Stairway and view this beautiful handiwork of nature, is to miss one of the leading features of the “Fairy Isle.”Views of Fairy Arch were sold as souvenir prints and postcards. The Detroit Publishing Company offered these two images in the first decade of the 20th century. To improve travel around Mackinac Island’s lakeshore, state highway M-185 was completed in 1933. In a misguided erosion control effort, Fairy Arch was destroyed in the late 1940s. Today, this unique formation only remain accessible through artwork, photographs, and written reminisces.Fairy Arch by Henry Chapman Ford (1874) Visitors to The Richard & Jane Manoogian Mackinac Art Museum may enjoy a lovely and somewhat idealized view of Fairy Arch painted in 1874 by landscape artist Henry Chapman Ford. This oil on canvas painting is an example of luminism, a type of landscape painting popular from the 1850s through the 1870s. Click Here for museum hours and information. The Little ArchMen explore the “Lower Arch” in this view by photographer James A. Jenney (1874) One half of Arch Rock rests on a large pinnacle of Mackinac breccia limestone that towers 130 feet above Lake Huron. Near the base of this cliff is a small, tunnel like arch, which is now nearly filled with rocky debris. Once much larger, this small arch has been known through the years as the Lower Arch, Little Arch, Maiden Arch and Sannillac Arch. In 1874, photographer James A. Jenney, of Flint, Michigan printed a series of Picturesque – Mackinaw stereoview cards. His view, entitled, “Lower Arch to Natural Bridge” is one of the earliest known photos of this formation. A similar view was published by Mackinac Island photographer Edward P. Foley in 1887, entitled “Maiden Arch, Under Arch Rock.” For many visitors, this smaller formation was easier to explore from the lakeshore rather than risking a steep hillside climb to view Arch Rock from above. When Mackinac National Park was dissolved in 1895, the island’s arches became part of the newly created Mackinac Island State Park. That year, a visitor named “M.A.” described Maiden Arch in a small volume entitled, Eight Days Out. Victorian era tourists explore Maiden Arch.1886 (left) & 1890 (above) “From [Robertson’s Folly] we followed the beach north to the foot of Arch Rock… There we discovered an interesting arch, which is not on the program, but is more wonderful, and will exist for ages after the renowned arch has crumbled and gone. It is directly under the high cliff, or promenade which extends out into the lake, that tourists walk out upon while viewing the Arch Rock… Two hundred dollars would pay the expense of a winding stairway, down through the principal arch, then under the lower one, and extending to the lake, which would be the most picturesque scene on the island.” Maiden Arch was renamed Sannillac Arch in 1916, by author Frank O’Brien, in his booklet Names of Places of Interest on Mackinac Island, Michigan. Sannillac, a Wyandot leader, was the subject of an 1831 narrative poem by Henry Whiting. Written in the style of Native American legend, the popular work contained notes by Henry R. Schoolcraft, Indian Agent on Mackinac Island from 1833-1841. According to local lore, this small arch was a gate through which fairy children entered Mackinac Island, while giant fairies entered through the larger portal, Arch Rock. Over the years, its name was shortened to Sanilac Arch.A boy explores Sannillac Arch (ca. 1910-1920) Before 1950, tourist literature encouraged visitors to climb through Sanilac Arch. In 1948, an article in The Island News noted, “Mackinac Island [State Park] does not point it out with an official marker and it can only be reached by scrambling up the bluff. The little limestone rocks crumble underfoot and make ascent a tricky accomplishment. The alpenstock is proper equipment.” For thousands of years, erosion has naturally carved out the hillside beneath Arch Rock. Today, the space under Sanilac Arch has nearly filled in with small rocks and other debris. Protected behind a fence and stone wall, the little arch may only be enjoyed from a distance to protect this unique formation and preserve visitor safety.Today, the opening of Sanilac Arch has nearly filled in with stones and other natural debris. (October 2021)
Archaeology Update Posted July 24, 2020 Trade ring with what can be interpreted as a “V.” Halfway through the archaeology season we have found some interesting artifacts, the end of some features, and more questions. Cufflink, or sleeve button, with an image that could be a classical or religious figure. The root cellar in the southeast corner of the house has yielded exciting artifacts for several seasons. This summer began the same way, with a button and part of the bone handle from a knife. Now some horizontal planks are appearing, possibly evidence of a wood floor. We tentatively identified a second root cellar in the center of the house late last season. This still seems to be the case. Several interesting artifacts have come from this area. The first was an intact engraved brass “Jesuit” trade ring. Iron breech plug from a flintlock muzzleloader. The design can be interpreted as the letter “V,” the Roman numeral “V,” or something more abstract. The second part was part of a cufflink, which would have been called a sleeve button by its eighteenth-century owner. It has a glass or rock crystal set with an intaglio bust. The bearded man could be a classical or religious figure. More research will be done on this piece over the winter. The final artifact, so far, was an iron breech plug from a flintlock muzzleloader. It blocked the end of the barrel where it connected to the wood stock. It was discarded because the tang broke off. It is only the fifth gun part found in the house. We are eager to see what else this area has in store for us. Interior post, located about five feet below the colonial surface. For six seasons, we have been excavating around a post in the interior of the house. We have finally reached the bottom, six and a half feet below our datum, probably about five feet below the colonial surface. It is sitting on a flat rock. Located near the southeast root cellar, it could have been a structural support for the rowhouse unit. Given its depth, it could also be a remnant of the first (1715) fort. We are exploring both possibilities. What will the second half of the season hold? Stay tuned to this blog and the MSHP social media channels to find out. If visiting Mackinac is in your plans for the summer, come out and visit the site in person. We are excavating in the middle of Colonial Michilimackinac, and work will continue daily (weather permitting) through August 22.
Mid-Season Archaeology Review Posted July 19, 2018 Knife found in the root cellar. We are just past the midpoint of the archaeological field season at Colonial Michilimackinac. It has been exciting so far! (more…)
